Kumaon was popular with the British sahibs and their families as a summer retreat from the blistering heat that engulfed the plains. The gentle hills, lush valleys and mild weather reminded them of “home”. The sloping, slate-roofed stone cottages with ivy-covered walls at many a ‘hill – station’, step straight out of the English countryside. Ranikhet is still the headquarters of the Kumaon regiment of the old British Indian Arm, while names such as Binsar, Almora and Ramgarh conjure up images of romantic, cloud – shrouded little towns. But before going up into the hills, we traverse tiger country – the dense forests along the banks of the Ramganga river as it skirts the foothills of the mighty Himalayas that comprises the Corbett National Park.